NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren is known for many big fashion shows over the years: taking over Central Park for a lavish birthday celebration, for example, or staging a parade amidst his impressive collection of classic cars.
But for his fall/holiday 2024 collection, he decided to go minimal — at least, minimal in Ralph Lauren terms. That meant an intimate Monday night show in a (relatively) small design studio in his New York offices, inspired by his first womenswear show in 1972, where he showcased his wares to editors and friends in his own desk.
Before a typically star-studded front row that included actors Glenn Close, Jessica Chastain, Kerry Washington, Rebecca Hall and Jodie Turner-Smith, Lauren opened her show on a note of timelessness – her longtime spirit – with the appearance of the muse and Supermodel Christy Turlington, now 55, wears a stylish beige wool coat.
What followed was a series of designs in soft neutral tones: beige, brown, grey, black and metallic. The soft palette characterized both daywear, such as tailored jackets and sweaters with trousers, and eveningwear, such as slip-on sequin dresses. There were baggy sweaters, lots of boots, and wide leather belts with “RL” buckles.
There were Lauren’s familiar Western accents, like long fringes on coats and jacket sleeves. And especially the occasional cowboy hat, which accompanied not only the casual ensembles, but, to close the show with a memorable look, a backless dress in shiny gold.
Lauren, 84, appeared briefly at the end, wearing distressed jeans, to applause from the crowd, which also included Vogue editor Anna Wintour.
Close wore a white Lauren pantsuit. “This is a very, very special costume,” said the actor. “It was made especially for me. Custom. Five years ago. I won a SAG award with it. So here I am. It’s a shame to only use something like this once.”
Close added that growing up in New England, “the mentality was, you buy something great quality and then you use it until it wears out. That’s how I was raised.”
After the show, guests walked a few blocks to Lauren’s Polo Bar restaurant, where the designer was once again applauded as he made his entrance — before tucking into one of his restaurant’s signature burgers.
Lauren’s son David, a brand executive, discussed the task of creating new designs each season. “You know, everything changes,” he said. “You’re always looking for new fabrics and new silhouettes, and you’re looking for new ways to bring the brand to life. But there is a philosophy. There is a style.”
With Wintour’s Met Gala coming up in exactly one week, David Lauren was asked if the label would be dressing any stars. “Not this year,” he said. “We’ve been very involved over the years, but this year we have a fashion show and we’re about to dress Team USA (for the Paris Olympics) and do a men’s show in Milan. So our plate is full.
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