Elie Saab’s classic fall couture has foliage, glitter — and capes for men

PARIS– Elie Saab once again transported his VIP guests, including Avril Lavigne and Ellie Goulding, to the Paris Museum of Decorative Arts, into a realm of magic and splendor. With silks and velvet, the Lebanese couturier once again conjured a fantastical, almost fairytale-like world of bridal queens, bright foliage and nighttime shadows. This season, the fashion world also took a fresh look at men’s couture, which is a slowly growing phenomenon.

Here are some highlights from Wednesday’s fall-winter 2024 couture collection.

The Lebanese designer’s fall collection came with a dramatic twist, strikingly at midnight, enveloping the audience in a dark and welcome mood. Models with black leather opera gloves and black satin graphic bands set the tone.

The men’s couture capes, part of the Saab theme since autumn 2022, were embroidered with sequins and shiny threads, reminiscent of silver foliage kissed by morning dew. Saab’s opulent men’s couture line continues to add a new dimension to its brand, catering to a market segment that craves visibility.

In the predominantly female display, organza movements swirled upwards from the waist in an artistic feat. As the collection progressed, the color palette softened. Tried and tested silhouettes down to the floor, dazzled in tones of precious stones.

A standout piece was an off-the-shoulder gown in powder red, where sequins on the bodice transformed into a sea of ​​feathers cascading down the mermaid skirt. The transformation of textures highlighted Saab’s craftsmanship.

While Saab designs don’t always break the mold in terms of innovation or surprise, the commitment to its signature style ensures that its creations remain timeless. Its star-studded clientele appreciates red carpet-ready classicism. Wednesday’s influential front row was a testament to Saab’s enduring appeal.

Dynamic design duo Viktor & Rolf is often praised in couture for thinking outside the box. This season, they expanded the box – literally and figuratively. The haute couture looks paraded in front of a visibly amused VIP audience, transforming models with cubic and rectangular structures. One of the first creations featured minimalist fabric with rectangular shoulders, as if the model had been gift-wrapped or wrapped in haute couture for some kind of luxury delivery. To complete the look, she donned a red dog collar hybrid neck piece that added an extra layer of whimsy.

Elsewhere, the boxy structures beneath the clothes evoked the concept of rigid shoulder pads, wryly recalling Hollywood’s glamor years. The pièce de résistance was a contrasting ensemble featuring a blue houndstooth shirt, pastel striped miniskirt and a Bordeaux embroidered jacket with gigantic box-shaped ‘shoulder pads’ rising above the model’s forehead. It was a sight to behold, mixing past and future in a surreal collision.

Known for their theatrical performances, Viktor & Rolf once again presented an engaging and fun show that transcended traditional fashion. The wigs were stiff and android-like, whimsically windswept, enhancing the surrealist, ironic humor that became his signature.

Their meticulous construction techniques and structural experimentation shined, recalling past feats like exaggerated shoulder lines and detachable corsets from a Nosferatu-inspired show. This season’s designs were not just garments, but a commentary on fashion itself and the absurdity of couture. Vitor & Rolf showed once again that they are the great architects of haute couture, deconstructing and rebuilding the box with each stitch.

French couturier Julie de Libran is known for her intimate fashion shows. She frequently enlists her closest friends as models and muses, evoking a nostalgic charm reminiscent of traditional haute couture presentations.

On Wednesday, de Libran took her signature style even further with the models, including the designer’s niece Julia and even de Libran herself!

Models held numbered cards, a nod to the historic way collections were presented in a bright, airy display.

This vintage touch was complemented by details like a pink feather embellishment on a loose-waisted dress, which exuded a 1930s feel. However, the dress’s bright red hue injected a contemporary twist.

De Libran’s affinity for vintage-inspired fabrics shined through in a Bordeaux column dress and an oversized coat, both adorned with bright velvet lamé flowers. These pieces exemplify their commitment to high-quality craftsmanship and recycling. Using exquisite fabrics from Lyonnaise factories, his creations are often unique and cannot be replicated, highlighting the artisanal nature of his work.

As a rare independent designer on the couture calendar, de Libran continues to captivate with her blend of nostalgic elegance and modern sophistication.

In the Parisian luxury industry, the art of the chic invitation is vital. Fashion houses compete to create the most inventive and extravagant show invitations, often delivered by gas-guzzling delivery men to each guest’s personal or professional address, with little regard for the environment.

Miniature masterpieces sometimes hint at the next collection, while other times they are simply whimsical.

Chanel’s last invitation, a pair of opera glasses, suggested the theme of the show at the Paris Opera. Staying true to its classic roots, Dior sent cards beautifully written by a former calligrapher, evoking the house’s timeless elegance. Schiaparelli’s giant gold-key invitation reflected founder Elsa Schiaparelli’s surrealist legacy, promising an avant-garde showcase.