Botox is a neurotoxin that changed the game in aesthetic medicine – and became a cultural phenomenon in the process. It’s now more popular than ever, with some people in their early 20s lining up at dermatologists’ offices and medical spas to prevent or reduce the appearance of wrinkles, all for between $10 and $25 per unit. (A syringe contains three to five units.)
Here’s the science behind the syringe: Botox blocks the nerve signals that make muscles contract. By interrupting these signals, Botox temporarily relaxes the target muscles, which can reduce the appearance of wrinkles caused by repetitive movements when injected into, for example, the forehead.
Botox is not the new thing it was when it was approved by the FDA in 1989. In fact, between 2000 and 2020, Botox use increased 380% – and people on social media aren’t shy about discussing the latest trends when it comes to this aesthetic intervention.
Although more people are using Botox to smooth fine lines and wrinkles (as well as for other purposes including reducing sweat, relieving migraines, and even relaxing the trapezius muscles), not everyone is as familiar with how it works and what it can do – and I can’t – do. Here’s what experts want you to know.
Botox won’t change your face…
Nousha Salimiregistered nurse and facial rejuvenation artist based in Los Angeles, told Yahoo Life that she thinks this is the “biggest misconception” when it comes to people who have never tried Botox — that it will make their face look very different from when it did. you have experienced it. But Botox is not a surgical procedure, and although it can relax the muscles in your face, it is not intended to give you a dramatically different appearance from the way a procedure like a facelift, rhinoplasty or cheek implants would.
Dermatologist Dr. at the Idriss Dermatology in New York City agrees, telling Yahoo Life that when “done correctly, Botox shouldn’t change your appearance, but it should smooth out deep wrinkles and fine lines to make you look more rested.” Popular places to get Botox include the “crow’s feet” lines at the outer corners of the eyes, between the eyebrows (where “11 lines” can form), and the forehead.
Botox also has limitations, Kim notes, as it doesn’t help with sagging skin (when skin loses firmness and tightness) or collagen production (lack of collagen can lead to sagging skin when it diminishes over time). “If you want to lift your double chin or smile lines, Botox is not the right treatment,” he says.
…but you might end up with a Botox look you don’t want
That being said, there are times when an injector (the person who injects you with Botox) can give you a look you don’t like. we necessarily want, says Salimi. She explains that people who are afraid that Botox will change their face for the worse often see people who have poor results with their injector, such as “Spock eyebrows” – which refers to a specific look in which the eyebrows are raised. dramatically at the outer corners, resembling those of the Star Trek character – or “hood”, which is the drooping of the upper eyelids. That’s a possibility with Botox, she says. However, all of this can be avoided by choosing an experienced supplier.
“It is very important to choose a supplier that does not just make a standardized dosage for each person – each person needs a personalized amount of Botox”, explains Salimi. “This is how you avoid ‘changing’ your face. If you do super light Botox, nothing will change about your face other than you will look like you used a really good skin care cream. You’re just softening the lines and you can still have movement.”
Fake Botox exists – and it is dangerous
Recently, there have been several reported cases of people who were injected with counterfeit Botox and became sick from it. Six of the people who received these fake Botox injections were treated for botulism, which is what happens when botulinum toxin enters the bloodstream. This potentially deadly disease includes muscle weakness, difficulty breathing, dry mouth, blurred vision, fatigue and gastrointestinal problems.
“Real Botox has been approved by the FDA and there have been rigorous clinical trials over the years,” dermatologist Dr. Elizabeth Bahar Houshmand tells Yahoo Life. “However, we don’t know what’s in ‘fake Botox’.”
Although it is technically possible for Botox to cause botulism, it is very rare as the toxin is highly purified and diluted. Purified forms of botulinum toxin used by licensed healthcare providers meet medical control standards. However, it is important for consumers to ensure they are using a reliable injector.
“Know who is injecting you,” says Houshmand, who recommends going to a board-certified dermatologist. “If the price is too good to be true, it probably is. There is a cost for raw materials. If it’s significantly out of line, that’s not good. This is not the time to use a Groupon.”
This is also not the time, she says, to go to “Botox parties” that are not held in a medical setting, which can increase the risks of botulism.
Botox cannot eliminate all old wrinkles
Botox smoothes lines because it relaxes muscles and stops them from moving dramatically. However, deeper lines may still be present even if you are using Botox.
“I think of Botox as opening a tablecloth that has been folded in your closet,” Dr. Josue Zeichner, associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York, told Yahoo Life. “If it is not folded for a long time, the creases will improve on their own. However, if the tablecloth has been tightly folded for many years, opening it may not be enough to eliminate the creases.”
Depending on the location of these lines, you may find better results with other treatments such as injectable fillerlike those made with hyaluronic acid.
Preventative Botox Is One Thing, But Not Everyone’s a Fan
Some experts I recommend “preventative Botox” to avoid deeper lines. It refers to “using small doses of the product before lines start to develop or the first sign of wrinkles,” says Zeichner. He recommends the practice, which can begin as early as age 20, noting: “The sooner you treat facial expression lines, the easier it will be to get rid of them.” He says that “once lines become deeply etched into the skin, even with regular Botox treatment, it may be impossible to eliminate them completely.”
Houshmand says preventive Botox is a decent option for treating the skin of younger patients, especially those who have a strong family history of wrinkles. Many patients, she says, bring photos of their mothers to show which lines they want to avoid. While Houshmand says that “using a very small dosage very precisely” can be helpful, she first recommends that her patients start with a solid skin-care routine.
However, not everyone is convinced that this practice is worth the cost, as to prevent lines from forming, it is necessary to consistently follow up on Botox treatment for years – which can be expensive. Kim does not recommend preventative Botox, stating that from her perspective, “you should only get Botox if you have wrinkles that move.”
You can use Botox for more than just smoothing wrinkles
Not everyone gets Botox just for cosmetic reasons. “I do a lot of Botox for hyperhidrosis, which is excessive sweating,” says Houshmand. “I can get Botox in my armpits, palms and soles. People love it.”
Another popular use of Botox, says Houshmand, is to treat migraines. Exactly how Botox works to treat migraines It is not fully understood, but it appears to work by blocking the release of certain chemicals involved in transmitting pain signals. Treatments can help reduce the frequency and severity of migraines.
Houshmand also treats patients who want “Barbie Botox,” which is Botox injected into the trapezius muscles of the back. The procedure has gone viral online for its ability to lengthen and soften the shoulders. However, Houshmand says he primarily uses it on patients who have a “knot in their back” from “being crushed on the laptop” and need a way to relax tension in their upper back and neck area.
