What is the best type of sunscreen?

scancel the screen is a $10 billion business, with a seemingly endless variety of products available for sale. Walk into your local pharmacy and you’ll find chemical and mineral formulas in just about every SPF count and format imaginable, from creams to sprays to sticks.

So which one should you pack in your beach bag this summer? See how to choose the right sunscreen, according to dermatologists.

What is the difference between chemical and mineral sunscreens?

There are two main types of sunscreen: chemical and mineral (also known as physical) formulas. They serve the same purpose – preventing sunburn and other skin damage caused by the sun’s UV radiation – but they do so in different ways.

Sunscreens made from the minerals titanium dioxide and zinc oxide create a physical barrier on the skin that reflects ultraviolet light. Chemical sunscreens, in turn, feature active ingredients that penetrate the skin and absorb UV rays “like a sponge,” explains Dr. Raman Madan, head of dermatology at Glen Cove Hospital in New York. In the US, these include chemicals such as homosalate, oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, and octocrylene.

Is chemical or mineral sunscreen better?

Many people prefer chemical formulas because they penetrate the skin well, while mineral sunscreens can leave a chalky white residue. But this residue is a visible sign of the staying power of these products; Mineral formulas tend to last longer than chemical sunscreens, says Dr. Abel Torres, chairman of the dermatology department at the University of Florida College of Medicine. “If you know you’re going to be at the beach for a long time, mineral may be a better choice because you won’t have to worry about reapplying as much,” he says.

People with acne-prone skin may also benefit from a mineral sunscreen, as Research Suggests Zinc May Help Clear Stains, notes Torres. Those with sensitive skin may also do better with a mineral formula, says Madan, because—unlike chemical sunscreens—these products don’t penetrate deeply into the skin, so “it’s almost impossible to be allergic” to them.

For the same reason, people who are concerned about product safety may want a mineral formula. Recent research shows that ingredients used in chemical sunscreens enter the bloodstream after being absorbed through the skin, and other studies (some performed on animals) suggest that sunscreen chemicals such as oxybenzone may be linked to hormonal disruption and increased risk of certain types of cancer. It’s too early to say exactly if or how absorption of these chemicals affects health, Madan says, but concerned people can find peace of mind in mineral formulas.

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There is broad support for this idea. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) said that titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can be generally considered safe and effective, but there isn’t enough data to say the same about the chemicals used in sunscreens. (The agency asked manufacturers to submit additional safety information for review.) And all 83 sunscreens verified by the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit organization that conducts independent reviews of sunscreen safety, are mineral formulas.

Still, Torres emphasizes that studies have not proven that the chemical formulas are dangerous; they only suggested potential risks. And there are many known benefits to using sunscreen, whether chemical or mineral – the most important is reducing the risk of skin cancer. Therefore, if the chemical formulas are the ones you are actually going to use, it is better to choose them than to go unprotected.

Which FPS is best?

Sun protection factor, or SPF, is a measure of how much UV radiation it will take to burn your skin while using sunscreen and when you don’t. The higher the SPF, the more robust the protection.

The FDA recommends choosing a product with an SPF of at least 15and the American Academy of Dermatology says it’s best to use SPF 30 or higher. People with fair skin may want to go even higher than that, says Madan—but after a certain point, SPF values ​​offer diminishing returns. An SPF-50 formula offers such strong protection that upgrading to, say, SPF 100 offers only a small amount of additional benefit, he says.

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Remember that no matter which SPF you choose, you should reapply after a few hours in the sun, especially if you’ve been swimming or sweating a lot. And, in addition to checking the FPS value, the Skin Cancer Foundation recommends choosing a sunscreen which is labeled with the phrase “broad spectrum protection,” meaning it protects against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA rays are responsible for wrinkles and skin aging, while UVB rays are the main cause of sunburn – but both are linked to skin cancer.

Is sunscreen better as a spray, lotion or stick?

Sprays, sticks, and other formats are convenient, but Madan recommends a good old-fashioned cream if you have the choice. “It sits a little thicker on the skin, so patients get more coverage with the lotion,” he says.

Research confirms this point. Studies have shown that people often do not apply enough sunscreen when using aerosol products, as the spray can be easily carried by the wind and many formulas are diluted by propellants and other ingredients. Using a spray also introduces the possibility of inhale potentially harmful substancesespecially if applied directly to the face.

But something is always better than nothing, says Madan—so if all you have is a spray, use it. The only exception? The FDA said it needs more data to prove that powder sunscreen is effective, so Madan typically recommends that patients avoid these products in favor of tried-and-true formulations.