What is the best skin care routine?

WBrowsing the skincare aisle is like sensory overload. There are gels, creams, so-called essences, and serums, so many serums. Products claim to revitalize, exfoliate, hydrate, brighten, soothe, correct – or work anti-aging wonders. What should a skincare newbie choose?

“It can be overwhelming for me, as a dermatologist for 25 years, to walk into a Sephora and be surrounded by all the different options,” says Dr. Jessica Wu, who practices cosmetic and clinical dermatology in Beverly Hills, California. “There used to be one or two retinoids, or one or two vitamin C. Now there are literally dozens, if not hundreds, of each category. It can be really intimidating.”

The first step to developing a skin-care routine, Wu tells perplexed patients, is understanding your own skin: Is it oily, dry, or normal? To find this out, wash your face and consider how you feel two hours later. “Feeling oily? Is it dry and tight or nice? she asks. “This gives you a general idea of ​​where you fall on that spectrum.”

From there, you can create a routine that requires just two to three steps at the beginning and end of the day. We asked experts which five products to prioritize – and when and how to apply them

A gentle cleanser

Washing your face for 60 seconds with a gentle cleanser every morning and night is a great way to restore your skin. You will say that it is away from dirt, makeup, sweat, oil that has accumulated overnight, dead skin cells and other impurities. “Even if your house is very clean, there could still be dust falling on your skin or dust mites living in your pillow,” says Wu. “If you have animals, they may lick your face or children may touch your face.”

If you have dry skin, look for a creamy cleanser, he advises. If you are oily, opt for a gel or foam cleanser as they help break down oil. Alexis Pfropper, esthetician who owns ästhetik spa and skin care in Punta Gorda, Florida, likes to remind people that cleanser isn’t meant to have a stripping effect. “We want to clean it, but not overdo it so much that you get that squeaky clean feeling,” she says. “It’s actually a little inflammation starting to happen because your face is now very dry and the pH has been stripped from the skin.”

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Pfropper suggests looking for a cleanser that contains hyaluronic acid, vitamin E oil and glycerin, which help moisturize the skin. Avoid fragrances, sulfates, parabens, and alcohol, which can be irritating, she says.

Moisturizer

Especially as we age, our skin becomes drier because we lose water – and that’s one of the reasons why hydration is so essential. “It can be very important to repair the skin barrier so that bacteria and yeast don’t cause problems,” says Dr. Leah Ansell, an assistant professor of dermatology at Columbia University who practices in Rye, N.Y. “Also, a moisturizer can just make your skin look and feel good.

Most people benefit from using a gentle moisturizer that doesn’t contain added scents or a ton of extra ingredients. Ian Michael Crumm, a beautician from New York, suggests that those with oily skin opt for a water-based moisturizer, which is light; People who get dry may benefit from a rich moisturizer with a thicker texture. You can apply it to your face, neck, chest, ears, under your eyes, on your hands – anywhere prone to dryness.

Vitamin C Serum

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect the skin from particles called free radicals, created by UV rays. Exposure can it breaks down the skin’s collagen production while also causing signs of aging such as wrinkles, dark spots, fine lines and sagging skin. “Our skin is bombarded by these free radical particles, and we want to protect your collagen from being broken down unnecessarily or prematurely,” says Wu. “This way, we can keep our skin looking fresh, smooth and youthful.”

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You can apply vitamin C every morning, says Wu, right after washing your face. Squeeze a few drops into the palm of your hand or directly onto your face and gently massage it into your skin. You can even put some on your chest, she adds.

When shopping for a vitamin C serum, look for one that includes vitamin E, which is another antioxidant, suggests Wu—the combination is stronger than just vitamin C alone. Ideally, it should be sold in an opaque container with a pump. “Vitamin C is very fragile,” says Wu. “If it’s in a jar, you open it and it’s exposed [to light and air], and it breaks. Just like a bottle of champagne or soda: when you open it, it’s empty.”

Sunscreen

Here’s a familiar but essential addition to any skin care routine: sunscreen. Everyone should get into the habit of using it 365 days a year from a young age, says Ansell. While it’s especially important in the spring and summer, it’s possible to experience sun damage at any time of year, she points out. Even if you don’t think you’ll be spending much time outside, you could still be at risk. Side and rear windows in carsfor example, they protect against UVB rays, which cause sunburn, but not all UVA rays, which are linked to wrinkles, skin aging and other damage. “A lot of dermatologists see that people have more brown spots and a lot more wrinkles on the left side of their face,” says Ansell, and that’s because they don’t wear sunscreen while driving.

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Opt for a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 to 50, advises Wu. (Going much higher than that doesn’t offer additional protection, she adds.) If you have sensitive skin, look for mineral sunscreen instead of a chemical version, she says—it’s less likely to be irritating. And remember, you need to reapply sunscreen at least every two hours, or more often if you’ve been swimming or doing sweaty workouts.

Retinoids

Retinoids are derived from vitamin A and can help keep skin looking youthful. The umbrella term refers to retinol (which you can buy over the counter) as well as a variety of products that require a prescription. Among them: tretinoin (which treats acne and hyperpigmentation) and tazarotene (which works against acne, psoriasis and sun-damaged skin). While people tend to use the word “retinol” to describe any and all retinoids, “that’s like calling everything alcoholic beer,” says Wu.

So what do you need? Most people do well on retinol, but some people—such as those with severe acne or other skin conditions—benefit from more potent prescription retinoids. Ask your dermatologist which is best for you. In general, if you’re trying out a retinoid for the first time or have dry or sensitive skin, it’s best to start with retinol—it tends to be less drying and often contains hydrating ingredients, says Wu. Apply a thin layer to your face before going to bed (it can be broken down by the sun), but only every other night for about a month. Some people find this annoying, so it’s best to go slowly.

Almost any adult can benefit from retinol, experts say, although people who are pregnant or breastfeeding are generally advised to avoid using the product. You should also skip it if you have sunburn or broken, already irritated skin. And it’s important to note that retinol can make your skin a little more sensitive to the sun. “Retinoids help stimulate new collagen and also unclog pores, as well as help push back layers of dead skin cells,” says Wu. “By doing this, you may get sunburned more quickly because you will have fewer layers of skin protecting you. That’s why we tell people to use some protection if they’re going to use retinol.

What is the best order to apply these products?

The order is important when you apply skin products. Here is the step by step routine experts suggest as follows:

In the morning

At night

How quickly will you see results?

You won’t immediately notice a payoff in your skin-care routine, warns Ansell — but that doesn’t mean it’s not working. The earliest you will be able to see results is after about four weeks. “Your skin should feel better – the texture will be smoother,” she says. If you’re dealing with discoloration, you probably won’t notice any improvement for two to three months. “It’s really the long-term benefits of a skin care routine that you see all the results of,” she says. “It takes months and even years, but it’s a really good thing to do for your skin.”

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Counting on the help of a professional

If you’re dealing with an issue like acne, eczema, or rosacea, consult your dermatologist before starting a new skin care routine. Or, if you have normal skin, consider scheduling an appointment with a licensed esthetician. Many offer in-person and virtual consultations, says Crumm, and it’s smart to come prepared with a list of which products you use and when, as well as how much you’re willing to spend on a new routine. Your esthetician will ask about your skin goals – a more even complexion? Looking for dewey? — and then develop a step-by-step plan “around your personal preferences, capabilities and budget,” he says.

Regardless of which products you prefer, remember that it’s never too late to start a skin care routine. Experts recommend thinking of it as an investment in yourself. “For a long time, taking care of your skin was a vanity thing, and it’s not,” says Pfropper. “It’s okay to set aside 5 minutes a day to moisturize and apply sunscreen and serums.”