From hiking ancient cities to wonderful markets, a solo adventure in Peru has it all

HAVING spent three hours walking through the verdant Andes in a gentle but persistent drizzle, the clouds begin to clear and the prospect of some sunshine becomes promising.

“Remember,” our guide Henry warns, “this is a cloud forest. There are no guarantees.”

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I’m on an eight-day trip through Peru, which takes me exploring cultures past and present, from the bustling contemporary metropolis of the capital Lima to the ancient Inca Empire – where I am now, walking the sacred Inca Trail.

Fortunately, by the time we reached Machu Picchu’s Puerta del Sol viewpoint, four hours – and 11 kilometers – later, its namesake had already proven itself to be true.

“You’re lucky,” Henry admits. “I thought today might be the Misty and Cloudy Gate.”

The portal is a little higher and 2km from the famous ruins – which we explored after enjoying the glorious views.

As the sun sets, we are treated to unparalleled views of one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.

Full of lima beans

I began my Peruvian adventure three days earlier, in bustling Lima – home to a third of the country’s 34 million people – where I quickly came across a statue honoring Peru’s most famous export, the Paddington Bear.

Wearing a Union Jack coat, he’s a strangely comforting sight when I’m more than 6,000 miles from home.

Peru is also the home of ceviche, its national dish, so it seems only right to task me with finding the best. After many attempts, with varying degrees of success, I finally arrived at Cevicheria Miramar.

Filled with locals and with a Spanish-only menu, I get an authentic Peruvian experience as well as possibly the most sensational meal I’ve ever eaten – fresh ceviche marinated in a delicately tangy lemon sauce, £5, and special chilcano (a fish, complete with rice, onion and coriander), €4, washed down with chica morada – a refreshing drink made from purple corn, €1 (Cevicheriariamiramar. with).

With enough fuel, I set out on foot, eager to explore the sprawling city.

Lima comprises 43 neighborhoods and the bohemian neighborhood of Barranco is by far the coolest, filled with colorful street art, cafes and bars.

After checking out chic homewares in Puna (Puna.com.pe), I head to the bustling Bar Juanito for a nightcap of chilcano – a delicious Peruvian cocktail of pisco, lime juice, ginger ale and Angostura bitters (Instagram.com/juanitodebarranco) – before heading back to my hotel to meet my fellow explorers.

Age of empires

The next day, my G Adventures tour group boards a one-hour domestic flight to Cusco, once the capital of the Inca Empire and now the gateway to Machu Picchu.

Here, archaeological wonders abound and I marvel at the Stone of Twelve Angles, an impressive geometric feat that testifies to the masonry skills of the Incas, before setting off on the 45-minute hike to Sacsayhuamán, an ancient Inca fortress that is also a Heritage Site. from UNESCO. World Heritage Site, entry £15.

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After working up an appetite, I venture to the San Pedro Market, a vast treasure trove of just about everything from juice bars and sweaters to souvenirs and coffee.

You can even pick up and chew coca leaves – the raw material from which cocaine is derived – while walking, which both tourists and locals often do to alleviate altitude sickness, as Cusco is around 3,300m above sea level. at the sea level.

I try the delicious pan Chuta, a sweet and sumptuous aniseed bread local to the region, before dodging the raw meat section – seeing piles of cow hearts, intestines and snouts is certainly not for the faint of heart.

Rainbow Stun

Neither did my optional excursion to climb Rainbow Mountain – striped due to its unique geological composition – the next morning.

Waking up at 4am to be picked up by a stranger in a white van and finding 12 people napping in the back seat starts a horror story, but two hours and a sleep later, we arrived ready for our journey.

Leaving the trailhead behind, we climbed a slight slope past grazing alpacas.

Our guide makes sure we stop every five minutes to catch our breath, because even though it’s just a 6km round trip trail, hiking at 5,200m above sea level is no joke – it’s only a little lower than Everest Base Camp!

Needless to say, any tilt and the air – or lack thereof – make their presence known. The mountain itself is stunning, but the real star of the show is Nevado Ausangate, the massive glacier opposite. A three-hour guided walk and transfer costs from £40.

After another short flight, I’m back in Lima. It’s my last night and I discover the historic Bar Piselli, whose brown interiors give the impression that it hasn’t changed a bit since it opened in 1915.

While this isn’t the first pisco sour of my trip, it’s the most delicious – and lethal – I’ve tried, £2 (Facebook.com/pisellibarranco).

Health!

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