In his distinctive Southern drawl, Rocco, the 63-year-old head cowboy at Arizona Cowboy College, tells us, “Two turns around the head and then release the rope like a javelin.”
Five tries later and I roped my first calf, albeit a plastic replica.
8
“Hey!” I shout, channeling my inner Yellowstone Beth.
Rocco turns and walks toward me, spurs clinking on the dusty sand. “Do 50 of these in a row and I’ll let you try it on a horse and with real herds,” he mutters without any hint of a smile.
I laugh nervously as he gives me the rope back.
The sun is shining and with a backdrop of desert, mountains and huge, towering saguaro cacti, it’s the perfect start to my first big adventure without kids here in southwestern America.
Stetson Sessions
Founded in 1894, the city of Scottsdale, which is located in the Valley of the Sun, Arizona, was once a stronghold for bandits like Billy The Kid.
Now, there’s everything from clothing boutiques to luxurious spas, but there are still plenty of places to make you feel like you’ve just stepped into an Old West movie.
8
8
After my intensive course at Cowboy College – half-day experiences cost £120 per person (Cowboycollege.com) – the Rusty Spur bar in the Old Town is the perfect place to continue my moonlighting as a country girl.
I drink a local beer while a country singer performs for the Stetson-wearing crowd, then go rifle shopping at Old Town’s vintage shops, including the legendary Vintage By Misty (Vintagebymisty.com).
The next day, with a sore back from the noose, I book a 50-minute Amethyst Awakening Massage, £125, at the Adero Resort spa, where I’m staying.
At this chic spot nestled in the desert hills, there are two outdoor pools, a hot tub, tennis and pickleball courts, as well as stunning panoramic views of the Four Peaks and the McDowell Range during the day and incredible starry skies at night.
Spacious, modern double rooms cost from £156 per night (Aderoscottsdale.com).
But while my hotel robe and sunset margaritas are tempting, I’ve caught the cowgirl bug, so I stop at Scottdale’s Cowtown Boots.
This warehouse-sized store has, aisle after aisle, the coolest cowboy boots I’ve ever seen – starting at £100 – and there are also plaid shirts, rodeo-ready jeans and lots of hats.
Oh, rodeo
Sufficiently dressed and booted, I head to my first rodeo.
Forty minutes drive north of downtown Scottsdale is a small town called Cave Creek where I find The Buffalo Chip Saloon And Steakhouse.
8
8
In addition to drawing crowds every Wednesday and Friday for live bull riding nights, there’s live country music and kids trying out the affectionately coined “mutton bustin’” – also known as the kid’s equivalent of bull riding, but in sheep – which is invaluable entertainment.
Buffalo Chip also prides itself on serving the best Texas-style grilled meats, and half a kilo of bone-in smoked pork butt, £9.50, is mouth-watering.
With my body feeling like 80% barbecue and 20% beer, I’m craving some exercise, and there are 400 miles of hiking trails within a 20-minute drive of downtown Scottsdale.
I soon realize that the 1.14-mile Echo Canyon trail to Camelback Mountain is half hiking, half climbing, but the stunning view of Sun Valley when I reach the top makes it worth the challenging hour it takes.
For a post-hike brunch, Hash Kitchen in northern Scottsdale is a bustling hangout beloved by locals and home to the state’s largest Bloody Mary bar, with a dizzying array of concoctions you can whip up.
With a live DJ and a creative menu of oversized hashes and over-the-top pancakes, I opt for the huge Ham(mer) Time sandwich of American cheese, crispy hash browns, fried eggs and hollandaise sauce, £15, and of course, a classic Bloody Mary, £9.50.
Paradise Choices
The Hermosa Inn, a boutique retreat in Scottsdale’s Paradise Valley, was built in the 1930s by flamboyant cowboy artist Lon Megargee and still oozes character, with its 43 luxurious casitas — also known as tiny houses — complete with freestanding bathtubs, beehive fireplaces and private patios.
Six acres of lush gardens and stunning views of the Camelback Mountain wilderness also help make this location the perfect getaway for my final stop.
8
His restaurant, Lon’s, is often hailed as Arizona’s most romantic spot, thanks to its alfresco tables nestled between festoon-lit trees, and I have a divine chilli prawn terrine, £16, and fillet steak, £1. 55, under the stars.
Rooms cost from £271 per night (Hermosainn.com).
I end my American adventure with a sunset horseback ride through the Tonto National Forest, a 40-minute drive away.
There are no buildings in sight for miles, just rocky desert hills, sandy paths winding around juniper trees, and the iconic cacti slowly becoming silhouettes against the bright red sunset.
A 2.5-hour journey costs from £199 (Windwalkerexpeditions.com).
As the chill of the night begins to recede, I climb off the Rap horse and discover that I now have a hike that would leave John Wayne – and Rocco the cowboy – impressed.
Yes, I’m in pain, but I would do it all again…
8
BY THE WAY
Plan your trip at Experiencescottsdale.com.
Return flights from the UK to Phoenix cost from £612.
Photography: Getty Images, Instagram/Hash Kitchen, John Woodcock
This story originally appeared on The-sun.com read the full story
