Africa’s “best kept secret” with walking safaris, incredible vineyards and plunge pools

A short distance away, we watched in awe as baby elephants were bottle-fed, their little trunks curving upward in joy.

The herd of young people next for them we are splashing vertiginously in the mud, cooling off from the intense heat that hits us.

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I’m at the Wildlife Discovery Center on the outskirts of Lusaka, the capital of Zambia, an elephant orphanage where rescued baby elephants are cared for until they are old and stable enough to be released back into the wild.

The African country of Zambia is still playing catch-up in the minds of many for whom safari automatically means Kenya, South Africa or Tanzania.

Less glitz and more game, for those in the know, this is Africa’s best kept secret – and for those just catching on, they’re busy shouting it from the rooftops.

And whatever Zambia may lack in terms of international influence, it makes up for it twice in untouched wilderness.

Almost a third of Zambia’s vast lands are heavily protected. In 20 national parks and 34 reserves, lions, leopards and elephants thrive in tropical grasslands, savannas and rift valleys.

As a safari destination, it is known for its smaller camps, walking safaris, night drives and strong commitment to conservation – making it a landmark across the continent.

I was staying near Lusaka at Lilayi Lodge, a perfect place oasis which makes desert living easy with plenty of walking trails, its own vineyards, and epic views of giraffes grazing at sunset.

I felt very far from home, but things were about to get even wilder when the next morning we took a small propeller plane over the mountains and entered Lower Zambezi National Park.

My home for the next few nights was Baines’ River Camp, situated in the shadows of the nearby mountains and on the banks of one of Africa’s longest rivers, the Zambezi.

With just 12 luxury riverside cottages, this place feels totally immersed in its surroundings – I learned on the first day that there’s a good chance a hippo will block the path to your room.

In addition to rural accommodation, the resort also offers mind-blowing walking safaris. With assurance from a shotgun-wielding ranger that we won’t get eaten by a lion (they’re not interested in us, apparently) it’s an incredible experience, following the guide who possibly knows more about these creatures than even Attenborough.

During the jungle experience, we learn about animal tracks, dung, bones and feathers and appreciate the intelligence of each creature that lives here. We even learned how a leopard manages to eat a porcupine.

Exquisite lunches are served on islands where elephants graze, and afternoons can be filled with fishing or canoeing through the canals of the crocodile-infested Zambezi.

What’s really special about going on a walking safari tour is that instead of hearing the roar of a diesel engine, we were exposed to the silent stillness of the almost real desert, with all our senses heightened by the possibility of coming face to face with face. face with a lion.

My fellow safari participants and I were so excited after our adventure that we barely managed to have lunch in the bush afterwards, although the cold beers helped calm our excitement.

The experience immersed us in nature, but if you’re the type who prefers a few touches of luxury, upriver, the Royal Zambezi Lodge is the place for you.

The only option is to arrive in style, by boat or to the camp’s own airstrip.

Each of the suites has its own private pool and river-facing deck complete with free-standing bathtub.

Private pool

You might even spot a monkey while taking a shower.

Visitors can take part in a walking safari or a game drive, both starting at dusk, where they will have a good chance of spotting wild dogs – a species so endangered that there are only 3,000 left in all of Africa.

Plus, exquisite lunches are served on islands where elephants graze, and afternoons can be filled with fishing or canoeing through the canals of the crocodile-infested Zambezi.

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One evening, we were treated to a three-course dinner next to a roaring fire, where the sounds of the landscape were followed by an epic performance from the resort’s staff choir.

It’s clear this retreat has spent years perfecting its product.

But all of this wouldn’t be possible without charities that fiercely protect the parks and their wildlife.

I suppose you could compare it to a mother lion, protecting her cub. This is nature at its best.